Greetings from Sydney, where cold and rain prevail, large pear-shaped men inexplicably jog shirtless and a very, very carefully brewed flat white is never more than a block away.
I'm a Londoner who's called Sydney home for over 20 years. It's mid-winter now and it is veeery chilly at the moment, especially at 6.30am for my morning bike rides! We're actually having beautiful weather and I'm sorry if you've missed it: clear blue skies for days on end. Unfortunately the effects of climate change are very apparent in Sydney and we're having shorter, drier winters and long, very humid summers. The ocean baths and the coffee are indeed to die for, but the places that really attracted me to living in Sydney are the gorgeous, old inner city suburbs - Surry Hills (my home!), Redfern, Chippendale, Newtown, Enmore, Erskenville and so many more. They have lovely old 19th century terraced houses, some tiny older sandstones cottages, charming leafy narrow streets, countless cafes and lovely old corner pubs and restaurants. There are so many little communities to join (cycling, yoga, ballet and choir groups) and neighbours and local business owners to chat to out on the streets. Every morning I wake up and I am happy, knowing I live in Surry Hills!
Abigail, thank you so much for your note and painting a portrait of what you love about Sydney. Your neighborhood sounds charming and exactly the kind of place I would also seek out were I ever to live there. The changes that global warming is imposing on our planet, our cities, and oceans and forests is one of the great tragedies of our lifetimes, in my opinion. The number and intensity of fires, extreme heat and warming marine ecosystems is going to change how my daughter lives her life, unfortunately. But don't get me started. I'm glad you love where you live and thank you for describing it so artfully.
I'm here to answer your question: Where the hell is everyone? Away somewhere warmer enjoying school holidays. Sydney is always quieter at this time of year I think.
Welcome to Sydney!! Just about to enjoy a cappuccino before my beach walk. One of my fave ocean pools is the McCallum Pool on the harbour- INCREDIBLE! Morning culture is the go here so enjoy! In 2 weeks I’m heading up to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains to celebrate Christmas in July :))
Sarah, thank you for the welcome recs, and thank you for reading these first impressions. I might need to become a morning person. Will you have snow up in the Blue Mountains?
Katoomba sits at about 1,000 metres above sea level, so it averages only a handful of snow days each winter.
What you may find very interesting in that region is spending a few hours at the Hydro Majestic in Medlow Bath- you can just jump on a train at Central. It was built in 1904 by retailer Mark Foy as Australia’s first grand health retreat, inspired by the European wellness movement. Foy was an eccentric and believed fresh mountain air, walking, restorative rest, good food and beautiful surroundings were the keys to living well. In many ways, his thinking was well ahead of its time.
I think you’d especially enjoy the heritage museum and displays throughout the hotel. They tell the stories of the people who came seeking better health—from society figures and honeymooners to everyday Australians—and offer a fascinating glimpse into how our ideas about ageing and wellbeing have changed over the past century.
The treatments themselves are a great reminder of how far we’ve come. Guests could choose from more than 80 therapies, including needle showers, Turkish baths, mud and sand baths, mustard and chilli poultices, bowel kneading, ear douches, enemas, electric-light baths and even electric rectal faradisation :/which was considered cutting-edge medicine at the time!
It’s a wonderful mix of history, architecture and the evolution of longevity science. Finish with lunch overlooking the Megalong Valley. It’s a fascinating snapshot of how every generation has tried to answer the timeless question of how to live well for longer.
I used to live there in the 70’s, 80’s & 90s. Has changed a lot since (tripled population for one), but the central and coastal regions retain much of their initial character. Sydney winters can be a bit miserable at times; spring is the best time to be there I found. That Resch’s pub poster is a classic, although a modern sensibility might see things in it that would never have occurred to us way back when. Despite the spirited rivalry between drinkers of different beer brands in Oz, I regret to inform that they all taste much the same. I think I’m the only Aussie who likes English beer…
Paul, thank you. Coming from a rain-starved climate, I don't mind the cold rains. They allow me to actually use my fancy rain jacket. The winter sun, when it decides to barge through the clouds, is noticeably strong. As for Aussie beer, my lager-centric journey is slow but enjoyable....
I'm a Londoner who's called Sydney home for over 20 years. It's mid-winter now and it is veeery chilly at the moment, especially at 6.30am for my morning bike rides! We're actually having beautiful weather and I'm sorry if you've missed it: clear blue skies for days on end. Unfortunately the effects of climate change are very apparent in Sydney and we're having shorter, drier winters and long, very humid summers. The ocean baths and the coffee are indeed to die for, but the places that really attracted me to living in Sydney are the gorgeous, old inner city suburbs - Surry Hills (my home!), Redfern, Chippendale, Newtown, Enmore, Erskenville and so many more. They have lovely old 19th century terraced houses, some tiny older sandstones cottages, charming leafy narrow streets, countless cafes and lovely old corner pubs and restaurants. There are so many little communities to join (cycling, yoga, ballet and choir groups) and neighbours and local business owners to chat to out on the streets. Every morning I wake up and I am happy, knowing I live in Surry Hills!
Abigail, thank you so much for your note and painting a portrait of what you love about Sydney. Your neighborhood sounds charming and exactly the kind of place I would also seek out were I ever to live there. The changes that global warming is imposing on our planet, our cities, and oceans and forests is one of the great tragedies of our lifetimes, in my opinion. The number and intensity of fires, extreme heat and warming marine ecosystems is going to change how my daughter lives her life, unfortunately. But don't get me started. I'm glad you love where you live and thank you for describing it so artfully.
I'm here to answer your question: Where the hell is everyone? Away somewhere warmer enjoying school holidays. Sydney is always quieter at this time of year I think.
Fiona, thank you. That is exactly what I’ve been told from locals. Works out very well for all sides!
Welcome to Sydney!! Just about to enjoy a cappuccino before my beach walk. One of my fave ocean pools is the McCallum Pool on the harbour- INCREDIBLE! Morning culture is the go here so enjoy! In 2 weeks I’m heading up to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains to celebrate Christmas in July :))
*love your work!
Sarah, thank you for the welcome recs, and thank you for reading these first impressions. I might need to become a morning person. Will you have snow up in the Blue Mountains?
No worries!! If you need more recs just ask!
Katoomba sits at about 1,000 metres above sea level, so it averages only a handful of snow days each winter.
What you may find very interesting in that region is spending a few hours at the Hydro Majestic in Medlow Bath- you can just jump on a train at Central. It was built in 1904 by retailer Mark Foy as Australia’s first grand health retreat, inspired by the European wellness movement. Foy was an eccentric and believed fresh mountain air, walking, restorative rest, good food and beautiful surroundings were the keys to living well. In many ways, his thinking was well ahead of its time.
I think you’d especially enjoy the heritage museum and displays throughout the hotel. They tell the stories of the people who came seeking better health—from society figures and honeymooners to everyday Australians—and offer a fascinating glimpse into how our ideas about ageing and wellbeing have changed over the past century.
The treatments themselves are a great reminder of how far we’ve come. Guests could choose from more than 80 therapies, including needle showers, Turkish baths, mud and sand baths, mustard and chilli poultices, bowel kneading, ear douches, enemas, electric-light baths and even electric rectal faradisation :/which was considered cutting-edge medicine at the time!
It’s a wonderful mix of history, architecture and the evolution of longevity science. Finish with lunch overlooking the Megalong Valley. It’s a fascinating snapshot of how every generation has tried to answer the timeless question of how to live well for longer.
Just a thought!! Whatever you do, enjoy! ☕️
I used to live there in the 70’s, 80’s & 90s. Has changed a lot since (tripled population for one), but the central and coastal regions retain much of their initial character. Sydney winters can be a bit miserable at times; spring is the best time to be there I found. That Resch’s pub poster is a classic, although a modern sensibility might see things in it that would never have occurred to us way back when. Despite the spirited rivalry between drinkers of different beer brands in Oz, I regret to inform that they all taste much the same. I think I’m the only Aussie who likes English beer…
Paul, thank you. Coming from a rain-starved climate, I don't mind the cold rains. They allow me to actually use my fancy rain jacket. The winter sun, when it decides to barge through the clouds, is noticeably strong. As for Aussie beer, my lager-centric journey is slow but enjoyable....